Maintenance Schedule

The following tables are based on the "OWNERS MANUAL" by HONDA, enhanced with more information and explanations but I kept manufacturer's notation:
* = Should be serviced by your authorised HONDA dealer, unless the owner has proper tools and service data and he is mechanically qualified.
** = In the interest of safety, HONDA recommends these items be serviced only by your authorised HONDA dealer.
I = inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate or replace if necessary, C = clean, R = replace, A = adjust, L = lubricate.

Keep in mind that the first 1000 km (600 miles) of a new or recently repaired engine is the so-called running-in period.

Engine Maintenance

		ODOMETER READING (x1000Km)
		1	6	12	18	24	30	36
*	Fuel line. Check fuel line and vacuum line for deterioration, damage or leakage.			I		I		I
*	Fuel strainer screen.		C	C	C	C	C	C
*	Throttle operation. Check for smooth opening and return in all steering positions. Lubricate or replace if necessary. Adjust free play with the upper throttle cable adjuster. When lubricating, be sure that lubricant won't enter carburettor.			I		I		I
*	Carburettor choke.. Check for smooth operation in same way as above.			I		I		I
	Air cleaner. Replace it more frequently when riding in unusually wet or dusty areas.riving. Oil vapour from crankcase breather slightly blackens it, so it is normal. XL400V spare part is different (more closed). You do not gain power from a re-usable filter (e.g. K&N).				R			R
	Crankcase breather. A transparent tube fitted with a cap. It is located at the bottom of the engine. Drain it more frequently when riding in rain or at full throttle.		C	C	C	C	C	C
	Spark plugs. For a rookie, it seems to be a difficult job. Four awfully located spark plugs!		I	R	I	R	I	R
*	Valve clearance. Christ ! The most difficult part of the maintenance. When you try it for the first time, you may regret for having a bike with a V-engine. My opinion is to avoid the first 1000 km adjustment.	I		I		I		I
	Engine oil. As you see, HONDA recommends a very long interval between changes. Easy job but, please, preserve environment !	R		R		R		R
	Oil filter. Replace it when changing engine oil.	R		R		R		R
*	Carburettor synchronisation. You need to remove fuel tank and use a special manometer.	I		I		I		I
*	Idle speed. When engine is properly warmed, use the hand -operated screw on the carburettor to adjust to 1300± 50 RPM. However, do not attempt to compensate for engine malfunctions in this way. First eliminate the real cause of the problem.	I	I	I	I	I	I	I
	Radiator coolant(1). When engine is warm, check level of the reserve tank. It must be between "FULL" and "LOWER" lines. Use 50/50 mixture of distilled water and antifreeze. Be sure that the antifreeze is suitable for aluminium made engines.			I		I		R
*	Cooling system. Check radiator cores for clogging and radiator finds for bending. Straighten bent fins and collapsed core tubes. Remove insects, mud or any obstruction with compressed air or low pressure water.			I		I		I
*	Secondary air supply system. (SW version only).			I		I		I

Maintaining the rest of the motorcycle

		ODOMETER READING (x1000Km)
		1	6	12	18	24	30	36
	Drive chain maintenance(2). Inspect the sprocket teeth for excessive wear or damage. Inspect the drive chain and O-rings for possible wear or damage.	I, L every 1000 km
	Drive chain slider. Check the chain slider for wear or damage. Minimum width is 3mm  (0.12in)		I	I	I	I	I	I
	Battery.. Check the electrolyte level. Add distilled water if the fluid level is near the low level mark. However, do not overfill, level must be between the upper and lower limit. The electrolyte contains acid, be careful ! Do not obstruct breathing hose, that would cause battery crack.		I	I	I	I	I	I
	Brake fluid(1). Check level. You have to remove the right side cover in order to check rear disk brake. Level change is a difficult job (air must not enter the brake system). Use DOT4 fluid only. And watch out not to splash plastics and painted surfaces.		I	I	R	I	I	R
	Brake system. Check for leakage, damages and cracks at fittings and hoses. Adjust brake pedal free play (shoe rear brake only) and pedal height, if necessary.	I		I		I		I
	Brake pads/shoes wear. Check if they are worn beyond the service limits. Depending on the driving-braking style, pads may last long after 10000 km.		I	I	I	I	I	I
*	Brake light switches. Check for correct operation and adjust, if necessary.			I		I		I
*	Headlight aim. Adjust beam direction, according to your country regulations.			I		I		I
	Clutch. Free play must always exist. It must be between 1-2cm, adjusted from the handle adjuster. If this can't be used further, use the lower end adjuster.	I	I	I	I	I	I	I
	Side stand. Check for correct movement and spring operation. Check stand switch (if fitted) operation. It must turn engine off if stand is used while not in neutral gear.			I		I		I
*	Suspension. Check the action of the fork and the rear suspension by compressing them several times. Check rear suspension for worn swing arm bearings (or bushings). Tighten all nuts and bolts to specified torque. This work is a two asterisk one, I think.			I		I		I
*	Nuts and bolts and fasteners(2). Tighten chassis bolts.	I		I		I		I
**	Wheels/tyres(2). Check wheels and spokes condition. Check tyres for cuts, imbedded nails and other sharp objects. Check trueness of the wheels (it can be done by a specialised technician only). Check tyre treat depth at the centre of the tyre. Minimum front tyre treat depth is 1.5mmm (0.06in). Rear tyre treat depth must be at least 2mm (0.08in).	I	I	I	I	I	I	I
**	Steering head bearings.	I		I		I		I

Notes:
1. Replace every 2 years, or after specified odometer reading, whichever comes first.
2. Requires more frequent maintenance when driving off-road.