Driving in Greece (Motorcycling Tips)

Last update: 9 Feb 2002

GENERAL TIPS

Greece is a TA paradise, at least regarding to the number of Transalp bikes (650cc, 600cc and 400cc models) running in the streets. Perhaps you won't find such an enormous quantity anywhere else in Europe. The vast majority of them run in the Athens territory. There are also numerous bikes of almost any kind and brand, mostly "on-off" (aka "dual sport") and "custom" (bleh).

In Athens, most motorcycle accessories shops (they have everything, from chain lubricants to clothes and spare parts) are located at streets Michalakopoulou and Kallirois, in the centre of Athens.

Many engine oil brands are imported in Greece. In motorcycle accessories shops you can find a vast range of mineral, semi-synthetic and purely synthetic motorcycle oils from MOTUL, CASTROL, VALVOLINE, TORCO, SPECTRO, MOBIL, MOTOLINE, SILKOLENE, PENZOIL etc. Petrol stations are mostly specialised in car engine oils from the above brands.

Greek climate is by no means aggressive for a bike like the Transalp (but for the driver, in summer, the heat might be). You don't have to do any any special preparation on your bike except using 15W50 or (preferably) 20W50 engine oil during summer. In winter, ambient temperature very rarely drops below zero. Even in that case, do not expect to drop below -3C(26F), unless in a few mountain areas in Northern Greece (Hepirus and mountains of Macedonia and Thrace). However, roads are very slippy when wet (particularly before water washes out dirt and oils from the street), so be extremely careful.
You must always carry a puncture repair kit (for tubeless tyres) or an instant puncture repair spray, regardless of driving in paved or unpaved roads. Usual suspects for punctures are areas with buildings under construction.

Gas is amongst the cheapest in Europe, about €0.67, (February 2002) for the standard unleaded in Athens gas stations. It maybe up to 10% higher anywhere else. Gas stations ("venzinadika" in Greek) usually do not allow for self-service operation or paying with credit cards (you may find some in Athens area). You may find super unleaded (98 RON) in large cities, however if you drive a Transalp you definitely don't need it.

Tolls are cheap (but they do not accept credit cards), sometimes toll post personnel tells you to pass without paying anything (Edit: No free pass anymore. There are automatic bars everywhere). So do not bypass the main national road, it is far away safer than the rest of the network.

ROADS CONDITION

The best portion is the highway between Kineta (between Athens and Korinthos) and Tripoli. Unfortunately, large part of the national highway network is still under construction, espesially for the area between Lamia and Thessaloniki (Salonica). Be careful when riding there, especially at night.
Nice twisty roads can be found anywhere, but good grip usually doesn't last for more than 1-2 years. When snowing, some roads might be blocked for any vehicle but those wearing anti-slip equipment (chains). The most problematic point is the Katara pass, in between Ioannina and Trikala. If you plan to use it in that season, better make a phone call to Tourist Police of Ioannina, first. Hopefully, there is a tunnel on the works, so this passage won't be a problem in the near future.

TRAFFIC

If you come from the Northern Greece it is impossible to completely bypass Athens (and it's heavy traffic), unless you select the old narrow national road from Thiva to Megara. The latter has some interesting sites but if your target is Peloponnese, passing through Athens is still faster. Recently, the situation in this part has been improved. But, if possible, avoid navigation into the rest of Athens labyrinthine network. Parking is one of the greatest problems in this city.
Thessaloniki is always a large city (although 5 times smaller than Athens) with considerable traffic. In all the other cities you won't have any serious problem (with the exception of Patras, perhaps, because the way for exiting the port is rather complicated and insufficiently signed).

FINDING YOUR WAY

Obviously, it is essential to find a good map. If you are interested in non-paved roads, even when visiting the islands, I suggest those maps published by the Greek "ROAD EDITIONS" (Greek-English text and village index, they show the location of every gas station and vulcaniser), easy to find in Athens and the islands. At least they are understandable by a Greek not able to read latin characters (supposing you ask one, if you are lost). ROAD EDITIONS made maps for all geographic divisions of Greece. They also have published many specific island and mountain maps (some of them are GPS compatible). Scaling ranges from 1:50.000 to 1:250.000.
ROAD EDITIONS telephone +1-92 96 535, +1-92 96 541, Fax: +1 92 96 492
ROAD EDITIONS bookstore in Athens: Ippokratous 39 street, tel +1-36 13 242

By far the best maps for the Greek mountains (including all paved and unpaved roads, hiking, climbing and skiing trails) are the GPS compatible maps from ANAVASI EDITIONS. They include an incredible number of  local place-names, sheep-folds, fountains, geological features, historical sites and local fauna. A booklet is also included.
ANAVASI recently started publicing maps for the islands too, keeping  the same degree of (excellent) accuracy.

The nicest motorcycle guides about Greece are the "Unexplored..." series from ROAD EDITIONS, again. They are excellent and valuable for any motorcyclist. Off-roaders will find a huge amount of trips on the mountainous areas. Their guide for Crete is already translated in English, Italian and German. The guide for Peloponnisos (even better than that for Crete) is unfortunately in Greek only, at the moment.

A good series of books to carry with is the "Greece", "Greek islands" and "Crete" from the ROUGH GUIDE series. Quite useful, although their main target is young people looking for cheap vacations. They also contain many common phrases and shop, food names etc. So, I also suggest them.

In most cases, the direction labels are located just before or even after the relevant deviation. Have that in mind, otherwise you might be confused. Additionally, you usually won't find any sign indicating the road name (i.e. E701 etc).

DRIVING ON TARMAC

Be very careful when driving in Greece, roads are usually poorly designed and signed (according to Italian and Spanish international highway standards, par example) and slippery. And, unfortunately, we are definitely not the best drivers in Europe. Many of us never use turning lights, even in heavy traffic. On the other side, we don't drink too much alcohol. It's very rare to see a drunk driver out of weekends and holidays (this may not apply to Athens centre and seaside areas, in summer nights) or during the daylight.
The most common law-break is that of "STOP" sign and priority violation in intersections, so drive always like if you do not have any priority. But this is a motorcycle driving panacea for every country all over the world.
Most dangerous 2-cyclists are the commuter riders. They usually use HONDA CUB50/90 or similar 50-110cc commuting vehicles. You can easily recognise them because they never wear a helmet (the older ones sometimes use an open type cheap helmet). They are boys anxious for speed (!) or they are older occasional drivers. In tourist areas, the worst of all are the drunk tourists riding rented scooters. So, be very cautious when night-riding there.
In cities, taxi drivers (usually yellow or grey cars) and (most of all) small truck drivers are the most dangerous and unpredictable 4-wheelers, so keep away of them. Sometimes you see fake "sport drivers" driving either a (usually red coloured) Alpha Romeo, Peugeot 106 Rallye, Fiat Punto GT or Audi A4, A6 etc. They make a lot of noise, they demand left lane exclusively for their own use and they think they drive Ferraris. Keep away of those idiots.

A (not only) Greek oddity is the usage of headlight beam signal for preventing other drivers passing rather than giving them any priority. That means, if you see the other driver signing his high light beam at you at an intersection, he might say "DO NOT PASS, I WILL DO THAT NOW!". In some cases they use this signal (or, preferably, double flashing) in the normal way but do not rely on this.

Many cage drivers use the fog lights (in city streets) and the high beam (during the daylight) to tell all us "I ORDER YOU TO LET ME PASS ON BECAUSE I AM FASTER THAN YOU!". In case you are a peaceful and wise person, let them pass, otherwise pull the throttle to give them some serious kick-ass (I do endorse the second choice of course!).

It's useful to know that, in roads with one only lane for each direction, people are used to drive on the emergency lane (although, theoretically, it's illegal). It is the best way to go slow and safe there (not in the night, though), but be prepared to face pedestrians inside or after the entrance of any inhabited area. They usually walk in the same direction as you, so they do not see you coming. Consider also that most old people in the country wear black clothes, being almost invisible at night.

When driving in rural areas, be cautious for children playing, flocks of sheep or other unexpected obstacles (donkeys, chickens). Also keep an eye on tractors, farmers are the worst drivers on earth. Do not drive fast there.

Conclusion: if you are really cautious and patient, you won't face any problem. Most of the motorcycle accidents happen to the inexperienced commuter drivers I referred above. Moreover, foreign drivers are less succeptible to accidents they are used in driving discipline (Greeks aren't!).

DRIVING OFF-ROAD

Greece is an off-road paradise. Mountain off-road network is huge and completely free to pass (except for military areas, of course).
It's strongly advisable to carry with you a small scale (1:50.000 or lower) topographical map and a compass. If you have a GPS, it is of great help to carry a GPS compatible printed map (i.e. with lat/lon grid).
During summer, be prepared for the dust. Most rivers are usually dry in that season, so they won't be a problem. Also be cautious for the dogs, when passing by sheep-folds or flocks. In most cases they are harmless but they could scare you (see General Tips page). By wearing motorcycle boots, you will be sufficiently protected.

MOTORCYCLE THEFT

Crime incidence in Greece is still amongst the lowest in Europe. However, you must be careful in Athens or other big cities. Always use a high quality lock (if it is a shackle, better be 16mm thick). When sleeping, it is better to tie (the bike!) on a steady point. A safe parking is, of course, the best solution.
Islands are safer, however you must not push your luck. Use at least one lock when the bike is outside your view. NEVER leave your bike locked with the main (ignition) key lock only, even the most inexperienced thief knows how to overcome this unsafe protection.