TA Transmission FAQ

1. What to keep in mind when adjusting the chain? Better to have it a bit tight than loose or vice-versa?
2. How to clean the chain?
3. Which chain lubricant is better?
4. What is the usual service life of a chain?
5. I want some tips for maximizing drive chain's service life.
6. How to be sure that I must replace the drive chain?
7. Is there any gain from selecting an "X-ring" chain instead of the usual O-ring one?
8. When replacing the drive chain, do I also need to replace the sprockets?
9. I hear a strange "kling-klang" noise from the rear wheel when decelerating.
10. Do you think the standard drive chain sprockets dimensions are well chosen? 
11. What about an automatic chain lubrication system?
12. How to install a SCOTTOILER?
13. Should I prefer an endless (riveted) chain or it must have a clip link?
14. How to replace the chain?
15. Do I have to remove swing-arm in order to replace the chain slider?
16. My TA revs reach "redline" (8800 rpm) at 160Kmph (100 mph). Is this normal?
17. Neutral gear indicator is malfunctioning. Where is the associated sensor?
18. Gearbox operation is noisy when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Is it normal?
19. Some difficulties when having to shift from 4th or 5th gear to neutral, after the bike is stopped.
20. Sometimes the clutch slips (no power to the wheel when accelerating from still position). I have tried to adjust cable slack, to no effect.
21. Gearbox operation is smoother when engine is cold and for the first 500-1000 Km after the engine oil change.
22. How to adjust the clutch lever free play?

1. What to keep in mind when adjusting the drive chain? Better to have it a bit tight than loose or vice-versa?
If there must be a great secret about maximizing the chain service life, that would be this: NEVER over-tighten the drive chain! Actually, a decent quality O-ring chain (like those offered by DID, RK or AFAM) doesn't even need any slack adjustment for the first 10000-15000 Km of it's life.
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2. How to clean the chain?
HONDA suggests applying paraffin with a brush. Low flash point solvents like petrol or high pressure hot water must be avoided. I also think that cleaning the chain must be carried out only when it is really necessary (cleaning and lubricating need to be more frequent when driving on dirt). WD-40 spray is nice for unloosening links that are stuck because of rust or dirt.
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3. Which chain lubricant is better? Teflon based perhaps?
All kinds of modern (or old fashioned like 90W gear oil) chain lubricants are good, if you have an o-ring chain (strongly suggested for the TA). Some people reported failures because of some brand of chain-wax, however this rather has to be attributed to the way that grease attracts dirt. Depending on the environmental conditions, o-ring compatible sprays are the easiest approach. Par example, the new (yr. 2000) Bellray has extremely low tear-off rate, keeping my clothes, spokes, rim and swingarm always clean. In very wet conditions or when a non o-ring chain is used, I would prefer an automatic lubrication system, in order to prevent rusted or stuck links.
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4. What is the usual service life of a chain?
20000-40000 Km (12400-24800 mi.) for a good o-ring chain, if you follow the usual precautions (see below). Expect approximately 5000-15000 Km (3000-9000 mi.) for a conventional chain, depending on the lubrication.
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5. I want some tips for maximizing drive chain's service life.
A few good tips from Trond M. Johnsen:
"Make sure the chain is not too tight. The chain on a TA should look slack to the occasional observer. Driving with a too tight chain, will lead to hot chain -> loss of lubricant -> chain wear, not mentioning engine and chassis damage.
Do not lurk around under 3000 rpm. Avoid open throttle operation until you reach 3000 rpm. I changed my riding style after wearing through my first set of TA chain/sprockets, and noticed far less wear on the front sprocket and prolonged chain life."
Apply the upper limit that owner's manual suggests, i.e. slack no less than 45-50mm (1.8-2 in.) when the bike is rest on its side stand. See here for more details.
Second in order of importance, decelerate using gear downshifting as LEAST as possible.
Do not leave the links to stuck because of rust or dirt.
When fitting a new chain, also replace worn sprockets.
Do not use high-pressure hot water or high flash-point solvents to clean it.
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6. How to be sure about when to replace the drive chain?
There is a red indicator located on the left end of the rear axle. But if you want to get the maximum service life, keep using it to the point that a maximum slack of 60mm (2.35 in.) cannot be maintained. There are some additional and very important indications that you must check for, as Detlev Mueller suggested:
"Try to lift the chain off the rear sprocket (at 3 o'clock position). if you can lift it off by 5 mm or more, replace the set.
If you can't adjust chain tension constantly along the whole girth. What does that mean? A chain tends to wear uneven with the time. Before adjusting it, find the place of smallest bottom-top movement. Adjust the tension, and check around the whole girth. When finding, that movement is remarkably too large at another place of the chain, it has to be replaced. Don't try to adjust tension to correct value at this place! On the other place, with smaller movement, it will be too tight then, with the risk of destroying the gear shaft's seal ring."
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7. Is there any gain from selecting an "x-ring" chain instead of the usual o-ring one?
To my knowledge, "x-ring" is a slightly improved o-ring chain type with no significant real-life benefits.
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8. When replacing the drive chain, do I also need to replace the sprockets?
This is an endlessly repeated essay but I have been told of some cases where very good life spans were achieved, even when sprockets were not replaced. So it seems that it depends on the degree of the sprocket wear (see owner's manual). To sandbag a little, however, replace both sprockets and chain before attempting a long trip in any country where it is hard to obtain replacement parts.
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9. I hear a strange "kling-klang" noise from the rear wheel when decelerating.
Possibly, unacceptably large slack or a chain ready to break. Do not ride until the problem is fixed!
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10. Do you think the standard drive chain sprockets dimensions are well chosen?
In my opinion, yes. It is a good compromise between fuel economy / relaxed operation at high speed on the one side and fast response / better handling on dirt on the other. You can always modify it a little but the only real solution would be a 6-speed gearbox (but how?).
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11. What about an automatic chain lubrication system?
An automatic chain lubrication system (e.g. SCOTTOILER) is extremely useful when using non o-ring chains. It could be useful even with o-ring chains, when driving under rain in most of the time AND you are "lazy" enough to oil it regularly.. In relatively dry climate countries, it is not necessary. E.g. in Greece most drivers use sprays irregularly (every 500-1000Km), for all that it's extremely unusual for an O-ring chain (e.g. a DID 525) to last less than 25.000Km. Another drawback is the cost of the lubricant, although it is easy to find an alternative cheapo (experimenting does help here).
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12. How to install a SCOTTOILER?
Les Hall put a related page at http://www.leshall.com/scott.htm. Experiment with the lube flow adjustment, in order to minimize consumption and to keep the bike as clean as possible.
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13. Should I prefer an endless (riveted) chain or it must have a clip link?
Avoid clip-link chains (those that can be removed from the bike without destroying), unless you are in the middle of you trip and you have no choice. Some people use clip linked chains without problems but there are numerous reports about clipped link chain failures. DID, in their site, clearly do not suggest them for bikes like the TA.
Endless chains cannot be temporarily removed, so they must be cleaned on the bike. But this is a minor issue, imho.
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14. How to replace the chain?
This is the procedure according to Trond M. Johnsen:
"- Loosen rear wheel nut.
- Move chain adjusters (& rear wheel) all the way forward.
- Remove gearshift pedal.
- Remove gearwheel cover (black plastic cover behind gear pedal). 8mm socket wrench needed.
- Cut off old chain.
- Remove front sprocket (also needs replacing) I prefer to also replace the two screws holding the front sprocket.
- If worn, remove rear sprocket (I use one rear sprocket for two chains). You'll have to remove the rear wheel for this one. Proper allen keys & proper spanners needed.
- Install new front sprocket, use treadlock on the screws.
- Slide in the new chain.
- Use the rivet link if chain comes with both chain link and rivet link. (an endless chain is best). Hook the link in place, press the left plate onto the link axles/bolts (or whatever they are called). Check that the link has same width that the rest of the chain (visual check). Carefully
rivet the link by placing a sledgehammer on the right side of the chain, in contact with the link axle, and tapping the right head of the link axle until it is bigger than the hole you just pressed it into. (see nearby links for inspiration) 
- install gear cover & pedal
- Adjust chain tension & tighten rear wheel nut."
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15. Do I have to remove swing-arm in order to replace the chain slider?
Yes :( Fortunately, its service life is very long.
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16. My TA reach "redline" (8800 rpm) at 160Kmph (100 mph). Is this normal?
It should reach 177 Km/h (approx.). In any other case, check for malfunctioning / incompatible CDI unit or non standard front-rear chain sprocket ratio.
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17. Neutral gear indicator is malfunctioning. Where is the associated sensor?
It is located under the black plastic cover of the front chain sprocket compartment.
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18. Gearbox operation is noisy when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Is it normal?
Yes. This is the worst part of the gear operation (some say this behavior is common to all HONDA gearboxes).
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19. Some difficulties when having to shift from 4th or 5th gear to neutral, after the bike is stopped.
Some or ...many, this is normal. You also may check clutch cable operation / adjustment.
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20. Sometimes the clutch slips. I have tried to adjust cable slack (free play), to no effect.
First try to recall the type of motor oil you used. Some automotive oils (those with API SJ/SH ratings) have too much of friction modifiers, so they don't allow slip-free operation. If it's not the engine oil, then clutch disks and/or springs may need replacement.
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21. Gearbox operation is smoother when engine is cold. Same for the first 500-1000 Km after the engine oil change. Why?
The shifts are harder when the oil gets "thinner" (e.g. when engine is warmed). I suppose the same happens when the oil is getting older.
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22. How to adjust the clutch lever free play?
The rule is to always have a lever free play. If there isn't, clutch probably will slip even when lever is fully released. This means loss of power and possible premature clutch wear. On the other side, too much slack prevents full disengage when the lever is fully depressed, so gear shifts become harder. Adjust the knob at the base of the lever for a small free play (say 20 mm).
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