TA Brakes FAQ

Warning: brakes is a vital part of the motorcycle. If they don't function properly, a qualified technician must take care of them unless the owner has the appropriate skills.

1. I am searching for cheaper non-Honda front (or rear) disk brake rotor alternatives
2. Which is the most efficient means to increase front brake power?
3. The older user manuals recommend DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. Which is better?
4. Can I apply "intermittent" braking to the motorcycle (same used on cars)?
5. After a hard (emergency) braking, the front brake smells a little and it is very hot. Is it normal?
6. I use extensively the rear brake on slopes, in order to keep speed at safe level. Is this correct?
7. How to check for worn drum shoes or brake pads?
8. The rear brake pads on my TA need replacement after 5000-7000 Km (3000-4300 miles)
9. Which is the "expected" duration of the front brake pads?
10. Someone told me that the models with rear brake drum are unacceptable. Is this true?
11. Which is the best pad brand (braking efficiency, smooth braking, resistance to heat, long life)?
12. During the winter, sometimes the front/rear brake is squeaking, when I use it
13. The brake is squeaking loudly when I use it, in any case
14. How to check the brake fluid level? Is it easy to replace the fluid? How often I need to do this?
15. How to adjust the point at which the rear brake light turns on?
16. How to install steel braided hose for the front brake?
17. The rotor soon became a little rusty. Is there something I need to do?
18. Which brake I should use when the road is very slippy because of ice, oil or a water+oil mix?
19. Is gear down-shifting the safest method for motorcycle deceleration under difficult conditions (in turns, emergency braking etc)?
20. Why brake pad pairs wear unequally, on the same brake (i.e. the rear and the left one)?

BRAKES FAQ ANSWERS
1. BREMBO (Italy), LOCKHEED, EBC and other firms made (alternative to oem) disk brake rotors. They are also cheaper than the oem counterpart (made by NISSIN) and, at least, of equal quality. They are manufactured from cast iron, as in the case of  the stock rotors. I am not sure if there exists such a replacement for the 1997+ double front rotor model.
Generally, be careful about the rotor thickness. Older (1987-1990) models usually are fitted with 4.5 mm thick rotor, while newer ones need a 5 mm one. Do not try to file the pads in order to install a rotor which is thicker than the original.
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2. To increase braking power on a single front rotor brake, install steel-braided hoses. The braking power of the double rotor brake TA is controversial but I haven't heard anyone making similar modification, so far. So I assume this brake is adequate, even without installing steel braided hoses. Of course one can install a larger front rotor (many modifications are needed) but this could be proved ineffective if brake pump isn't also replaced with a more powerful one.
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3. Do not use DOT3 spec fluid, it isn't compatible with the newer models (as 1997 TA users manual suggest).
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4. I posted this question because I have heard a few people saying they apply intermittent braking in order to avoid wheel blocking. It is a dangerous practice, of course, and it should be definitely avoided. The correct method of braking involves too many parameters, so it is beyond the subject of this FAQ. 
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5. After an emergency (heavy) braking, a brake is always overheated a bit. Since the front brake is playing the primary braking role in those situations, it is more possible to make it hot. However, this is normal, (on the contrary, for the next question the answer is different).
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6. Continuous application of the rear brake when descending a slope? Never! Particularly if you have a rear drum brake (older TA models), chances are that you damage the drum pads, because of overheating (a drum brakes is not so efficient in carrying off heat, when compared to a disk brake). Front brake is cooled more efficiently but it affects handling in many situations, when descending a slope.
The second problem arising is the reduced effectiveness of a brake when overheated (after continuous usage). So, the best method for keeping the motorcycle at safe speed is the engine braking (achieved by selecting a suitable low gear).
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7. Things are easy for the rear drum brake, because there is a wear indicator. In the case of a disk brake, you need a bit of experience. If you do not have the skill, have a specialized person to show you how to check for pad wear. Next time, inspection will be fairly easy. Explanatory photos will be published here, in the future.
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8. There are four possible reasons for premature rear disk pad wear:
a. Novices are usually afraid of using the front brake, even when there is a lot of traction..
b. Stock pads are softer than most of the aftermarket ones (that is not necessarily bad, since TA is not a racing bike).
c. Disk rotor is unequally worn.
d. The motorcycle is driven fast during  a lot of traffic everyday or, generally, the driving style is too aggressive. Of course, driving style is beyond any critic. This question is posted just for your reference :-)
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9. The "expected" duration of a front brake disk pad is a somewhat not well defined parameter (see previous question). Just two extreme examples:
a. On my 1997 TA (double rotor front brake), I have not replaced the front pads so far. I replaced the stock rear disk pads at 8.000Km (with a pair of SBS, they are rather harder than the oem). At the moment, both front pads ((35.000Km) and rear pads (27.000Km) do not need  to be replacement at the moment. Note that I don't use my bike for everyday commuting.
b. Another Greek TA Club member replaces both (!) rear and front disks (single rotor front brake) at about 8.000 - 10.000Km. He drives very fast in the traffic, where he uses his bike, in daily basis.
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10. This is another controversial TA issue. Considering the genre of this motorcycle, a rear drum brake is not completely incompatible with it. I do know many drivers who they didn't face any serious problem because of this type of brake. 
Nevertheless, the weakest point of any rear drum brake is the lack of progressiveness (so use it with great caution when the traction is minimal or mediocre) and the reduced ability of transferring the heat from brake to ambient. That is why all of the modern high power motorcycles are no longer fitted with drum brakes.
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11. Most TAers agree that the stock disk pads are adequate (although a bit squeaky sometimes). Using harder pads, you may accelerate disk wear. Disk is more expensive and difficult to find.
BREMBO green pads had a good reputation here in Greece. However, there are reports that their quality is lower now, after they changed their oem manufacturer (I think FERODO is now their collaborator). Other brands offering brake pads for the TA are LUCAS (suggested by Detlev Mueller's site), NISSIN (I suppose they offer something similar to what they sell as oem to HONDA), SBC, etc. In any case, do not buy sintered ("metallic") pads, prefer the most soft type you can find and do not worry about the reduced pad duration. Soft pads are more smooth than the harder ones, so they are better for conventional (non sport or racing) usage.
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12. Usually, it is normal. The pad squeaking noise is produced when the activating piston and the pad are tuned in the same frequency. One remedy is to remove the pads and carefully apply a suitable spray on them. A better approach is the following, as posted by David Mason:
Any unusual brake noises should be investigated thoroughly. I would suggest that you start with a visual inspection of the pads (for excessive wear) and the pad retaining clips. A broken clip would produce a squeak. If all appears to be well, undo the caliper retaining bolts and check the sliders. These allow the caliper to move as its squeezed from one side (twin pot but none apposing). These sliders should be free of rust and grit and lightly greased with Copper grease or a suitable brake grease. Assuming these are OK, I would suggest that you smear a little copper grease on the back of the pads. This is a recognized solution to pad squeak.
There is another very interesting hint from Tom Torok:
Ineffective & noisy brakes ... The noise could also be (if it is a hum or wirr noise) the wheel bearings (test by removing wheel and spinning with axle in your hands), or the chain! (less
likely). Also, if the brake pads touch the disc rotor too much (with a friend lift front wheel off ground and try to spin), the rotor could be warped (wobble, shimmy) or the brake piston seals are stopping the free movement of the brake pistons, causing drag - replace them.
Regarding to the rear drum brake squeak, you must know that squeaking is many times a typical characteristic of that type of brake. Careful choice of the pad brand, cleaning of the drum and the pads (not using water, of course) and processing the drum pad with emery paper may help here, otherwise you must learn to live with it.
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13. If the brake is always squeaking loudly when using it, the pads may be worn to the limits. In that case, you will face premature disk wear and damage. That is an obvious reason why (disk or drum) pads must be periodically checked for wear.
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14. To check brake fluid level, you must locate the respective pump. Rear one is locate under the battery compartment. There is a glass window level indicator on both front and rear pump. You don't need to open the pump (this is not a job for everyone!). But you need to open it, if you want to replace the fluid (every 2 years or after 18.000 Km). The later is a slightly complicated job that must be taken out with the greatest caution. The procedure is given here.
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15. The corresponding (black colored) rear brake light switch is located roughly in the area over the engine oil filling cap. It has an adjusting knob (plastic nut) that you must rotate using hand or pliers.
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16. Here is a guide by Detlev Mueller on how to install steel braided hose for the front brake system:
Remove all of the stock stuff, except the clamp on the left fork leg. Also, dependent on what brand of brake hose you purchased, you may remove the (right-angled AFAIR) adaptor on main brake cylinder (the one on the brake lever). At least when having a Spiegler hose, you have to do so, and screw the new hose directly to the cylinder. Be sure, that the hose won't get too tight when suspension is completely relaxed, and that it doesn't touch any part of frame, crashbar or whatever, even when suspension is completely engaged AND handlebar is moved to far left/right. For a routing example see http://www.ta-deti.de/new_brak.html.
A second hint comes from Nedim Tosyali:
Just make sure you get extra washers and screws for the ss brake lines. Also do not tighten the ss line screws (bolts) too much, they can brake easy because of the materials they use.
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17. There are not many things to do if the disk rotor becomes a little rusty. It is normal for cast iron rotors (it also depends on climate, of course).
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18. Again, this is not a clearly Transalp oriented question. I posted it because I also involved myself in a skid-then-dropped-down accident. Actually, you must never hit your brakes when the tarmac is very slippy. You better sit and wait for the rain to wash out all that dangerous oil-water mix. In case of ice, I could not suggest anything (I run out of experience and ideas!).
In any case, down-sloping roads and (particularly) down-sloping turns are the most dangerous places to pass, when traction is minimal.
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19. No, gear down-shifting is not the safest method for deceleration. Not only it severely reduces transmission chain life, it is also NOT a progressive way of braking. Results on rear wheel traction could be unpredictable.
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20. It is common to see a slightly unequal pad wear. The brake piston acts directly on the first pad only, therefore it is obvious that this pad wears faster. However, if the wear is excessively unequal, you must undo the caliper retaining bolts in order to clean the sliders and  lubricate them using copper grease.
This tip was posted by Michalis Chrisikopoulos.
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