TA Accessories FAQ

Last update:

1. Is there any tank cover - tank bag combination specifically made for my TA?
2. Is there an easy way to increase the headlight beam intensity?
3. Do I need crash bars? What about compatibility with older TAs? Any danger from them?
4. How to fix the sensor of a bicycle computer (trip meter) in the front wheel of my TA?
5. A better solution than the cheap bicycle trip meter? What about the wireless trip meters?
6. Does the original plastic engine guard really protect the motor during serious off-roading? Is there any after-market metallic engine guard?
7. What are my options for an intercommunication device?
8. Do I need a centrestand and from where could I obtain one? Any incompatibilities?
9. Is there any good after-market seat?
10. Does a higher windshield really improve rider comfort at high speeds?
11. Which heated grips are suitable for the TA? Any recommendation on the installation?
12. Are these hard top cases a good choice? Which brands are the best?
13. Is there any modification needed before installing a hard side case support system?
14. A small "survival kit" for long distance travels in abroad?
15. Do I need to replace the OEM grips?
16. What else I could do to be more visible by other drivers at night?
17. Are all disc brake locks compatible with the TA? Are they safe?
18. Is it possible to install a stereo loudspeaker system? (on a TA, of course...)
19. Do I need a longer rear mudguard and where I could find one?
20. Under a very cold climate, what types of heated apparatus or other protection are recommended?
21. I feel a hand numb during long trips. I see many bikes fitted with anti-vibration weights on both ends of the handlebar. Are they useful?
22. What is the deal with the 9 Kg (20 pound) rating on the standard top luggage rack?

Note 1: for automatic lubrication devices, see Transmission FAQ
Note 2: = it also refers to XL650V

ACCESSORIES FAQ ANSWERS
1. Yes, there are tank covers made by BAGSTER (France). They are offered in various colors while the material is fake leather, which is durable and moderately water-resistant. On the top of the tank cover, there is a big hole for the gas tank cap. Despite that, tank cap sometimes conflicts slightly with the cover.
There are two BAGSTER tank bags models that fasten on the above tank cover using buttons:  one of them is better fitted to the TA because the handles doesn't interfere to the bag while maneuvering. Check before buying it! The bag has a special compartment that contains the water proof cover. Unfortunately, that cover consumes some room. As for the price, all of them are a bit expensive.
top

2. Despite the "tons of ink" spent to prove that there a few miraculous after market bulbs giving exceptionally high beam intensity without increasing power consumption (and  heat), the answer is roughly "no". All you got with those bulbs is a higher medium scale intensity (if you need it) and a yellowish high beam with mediocre intensity. The only effective solution consists of putting a higher power drain lamp that, of course, needs new wiring and a separate relay to control it. Do not install it without the upgraded wiring and the extra relay because you will get insufficient light due to high voltage drop. See this page for a practical example.
top

3. Most TA (or BMW F650, or Africa Twin, or ...) owners, including me, urge for the necessity of crash bars. The most easy thing in the world is to leave the bike to fall on mother earth while maneuvering. And I don't need to remind you of the crashes.
However, some people are afraid of the injury crash bars could make to the driver (on the contrary, cover plastics are softer and they bend instead of hitting the body). Although the later seems to make sense, I think it doesn't because the usual case of a serious motorcycle accident (and the most dangerous one) includes the ejection of the driver away of the bike.
Compatibility with older (before 1994) is an issue. Some times a lot of effort is needed while in other cases you only need a longer bolt. Look here for details.
top

4. The perfect location for a trip meter on a TA is a matter of inspiration, of course, but you may see my suggestion for the 1997+ models here.
top

5. There is a solution which approaches the perfect "trip computer" better than the usual cheap bicycle speedo. I found one at Tourratech's site.
Wireless trip meters are completely useless, because of the interference that comes from the motorcycle's ignition circuitry. This has been proved by quite a few members of the Transalp mailing list.
top

6. IMHO, the plastic OEM engine guard is quite adequate for the off-road capabilities of any TA (except doing Paris/Dakar-like trips) . You may see it seriously scratched but it won't break.
A few small manufacturers offer aluminum or stainless steel engine guards from time to time (for 600cc models, at the moment). Some of them fit to the TA, other don't. Some of them are really ugly (although I do admit that the OEM guard is not very nice, because of its plastic appearance).
top

7. There are three intercom device categories:
a. Electrical wired. This is the most common type. Their usual drawback comes from the saturation of the microphone itself and also of the preamplifier circuit, at relatively high speeds (above 80-120Km/h, depending of the quality of the microphone and the complexity of the filters). This phenomenon causes a very distorted sound that you can't improve by shouting loudly or by increasing volume. Unfortunately, that saturation is very easy to happen, since the air flow through the bottom of the helmet is very turbulent. The ultimate synonym of turbulence is the space behind the TA windshield, particularly the after market ones (because they are higher than the OEM).
b. Electrical wireless. They are the most expensive amongst all. So you MUST do a test ride before purchasing them (checking sound quality, interference from motorcycle's ignition). This type of intercom also suffers from microphone saturation.
c. Non electrical. I ordered one from M&P Accessories for 70 pounds (the "stereo" version). It works nice at speeds over 140Km/h on the TA! But it is much more awkward in use. It uses pipes to directly transmit sound and the "earphone" are like  earplugs. But I think you hardly could find any electronic intercom working fine at so high speeds. Alas, it's not suitable for daily use. BMW also produced (I don't know if they continue to make it) such a kind of intercom.
top

8. Hmmm... I am not exactly sure. Check out this page for details and possible problems. And keep in mind that the "US" models (1989) are NOT fitted with a centrestand socket (although some owners managed to modify them for accepting one). As for the new XL650V model, I am sure it DOES need a centrestand in order to protect the lower part of the exhaust, during real off-road driving. Any comments on that?
top

9.  Perhaps the (pricey outside U.S.) Corbin after-market seat is a good alternative since it seems to lower the seat height a bit, while the driver sits more comfortably (driver's seat in the original seat is too narrow for really long trips). However, many drivers complained that the Corbin seat needs re-working in order to become a real improvement. This is also my impression, from a few minutes sitting on such a seat purchased here in Greece. Here's a note from Robert Pinder:
"BTW just put a new Corbin on one of my Alps before leaving. It's easily worth twice the selling price. I feel the bike may even handle better because of it - it's definitely lower and with the rump bump you really sit "in" the saddle rather than on "top" as one does on the stock square foam log. Constantly being jammed into the tank, particularly with a passenger, is now a thing of the past!!
I must add that I was disappointed with one aspect of the workmanship on the Corbin however. The cover material was not laminated to the foam at the sharply radiused curve at the rump bump and is therefore pulling away and of course, has not improved with riding. I have yet to contact them. Has anyone had dealings with them with regards to problems? The saddle was delivered in considerably less time than I was told when I ordered it - for which I was extremely thankful!"
My second thought about Corbin seats is related to the pillion's part. I don't see any improvement here (original seat is already very nice, regarding to this point), not to say it may be worse because of the smaller length. Here's a similar comment from Jadam (?):
"I had a Corbin seat on my TA. It's a little lower, but wider than the stock seat so it splays your legs out a bit. In other words, if you're below 170 cm, you may find that the seat makes it hard for you to get both feet down on the ground. It's firmer than the stock seat and seems to provide more support. Corbin seats are not waterproof, so you have to get a rain cover for the seat. Because the Corbin seat is stepped (king/queen style) it reduces the pillion space, so if you ride two-up, your partner might complain. Whether you like the seat or not is very subjective. Thousands of people swear by Corbin seats, but being shorter, and often riding two-up, I found I preferred the stock seat. The guy I sold the Corbin to really liked it.
top

10. In short: yes any after-market windshield (taller than the OEM one) reduces the wind pressure on the chest and neck, however it may increase air turbulence and noise around the helmet, particularly at higher speeds. The problem is too complicated (e.g. you must take into account the driver's height), that is why one may get so different opinions on that subject. My opinion and recommendations are here.
top

11. You have three choices for heated grips:
a. The cheapest are offered by KIMPEX and their biggest advantage is that you keep using your preferred brand of rubber grips. Here is a description by Vik Banerjee:
"I use KIMPEX snowmobile grip heaters on my bike. They are just thin metal heating elements which stick to your bars and are then covered by your standard rubber grips. They work well and are very robust - also easy to install. The price is like $20 CDN dollars - so really cheap. I have them on all my bikes - road and dual purpose."
However I warn you that it might not be a durable solution since I have recorder some complaints about their fragility.
b. Many brands including HOTGRIPS, NEWTRONICS, OXFORD, HEIN GERICKE offer motorcycle specific heated grips. Most of them (NEWTRONICS and OXFORD par example) are too long to fit on the TA handlebar. Anyway, before purchasing, measure their inner diameter (right is slightly larger) and length. Personally, I use a HEIN GERICKE model which is an almost perfect fit for the stock handlebar (only 0.5cm longer than needed, for the right grip)
c. HONDA offers a heated grip system for the new 650 cc Transalp. I suppose it also suits to the older models. It is fitted with a variable heat controller (I am not sure if it is an adjustable thermostat, that would be the perfect solution) and it looks promising.
After buying heated grips, you must connect them to a switched part of the 12V system, not directly to the battery (for obvious reasons). Always use a fuse and a control relay if you are not sure about the current draw permitted by that part of motorcycle's electrical system. You must also use a fuse in series (its current rating depends on grip's maximum wattage, usually a 3-5A fuse is OK). When calculating the maximum current, take into account the "start-up" warming - up mode (if there is one). Generally, as in the case of increasing headlight intensity, all the job must be done by a person with skills in vehicle electrical installation.
top

12. Yes, top cases are rigid, durable and very useful, although they aren't so safe (immune to theft) as they look. There are many choices, you may get some ideas here.
top

13. To install any hard side case support system (e.g. GIVI WingRack, NONFANGO), you must remove the replace the original rear turning lights with the ones supplied by the case manufacturer. In the case of the GIVI top case, you must also remove the shackle (D-lock) socket that is fitted on 1996-1999 models (for the WingRack model only). And, of course, the standard toolbox will be useless from now on.
There is a cheaper GIVI model that does not need any turning light modification
top

14. A survival kit suitable for long trips must contain at least the following:
- medicine box (absolutely indispensable). It's content depends on the countries you visit. Sunglasses, sunburn protection lotion, mosquitoes repellent, if needed. Toilet paper (you never know when it will come handy, water bottle.
- anti-theft equipment (e.g. a good long chain but it is inconvenient to carry with)
- spare clutch cable (breaking is very rare but when it happens...)
- Spokes for rear and front wheel (be sure to buy the correct pairs), particularly if there aren't officially imported TAs in the destination country.
- spare headlight, rear and turn light lamps packed in cotton (to prevent crashing them)
- tools for repairing tire (but practice with them before you go)
- tools for changing engine oil and filter, adjusting chain slack etc. Also a pliers/cutter, some pieces of cables, insulating tape and a towel
- A portable air pressure gauge
- A torch (useful if you are unlucky enough to need making a repair during the night)
- For medium distance trips (say, up to 8.000Km), 1 Lt of engine oil for adding every time you see the level is near the lower limit. You must choose (or find an empty one) that with the "telescopic" hose (e.g. MOTUL 3100) to avoid carrying a funnel, especially when there are crash bars on the bike. The later tend to make hard any attempt to approach the oil tank cap.
- chain lubricant (e.g. a good sticky spray) or an automatic oiling system like SCOTTOILER, particularly if driving in rainy areas.
- A set of foamy ear plugs. They make long rides (on safe, boring highways) a bit more relaxing.
- Always carry some cash with you. You may need it under odd circumstances.
- Don't forget to take spare passport photos and photocopies of your license papers etc (in case you loose the originals, they are useful for your country's embassy).
Additional tools, recommended by Detlev Mueller:
"Don't forget an air-pump ... What will the best tools help, if tire is flat anyway ...
- spare clutch lever and front brake lever
- spare sparkplugs (two should be enough)
- spare fuses
- tools: screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 24 mm wrenches, and at least a 10mm socket wrench."
top

15. The original grips are of low quality and they tend to leave black dirt on hands and gloves. There are numerous brands offering good replacements. I used a brand called SUPERSOOTER (!!) because I found it durable and elegant. Now I use the HEIN GERICKE heated grips and they are also better than the OEM.
top

16. To be clearly visible at night, you must wear reflective clothes (or those equipped with highly reflective zones) and a bright colored helmet. But if you want to be even better spotted by the drivers coming from the rear side, you may install special reflective red components (I don't know the correct term) on the lower rear, to the left and right of the number plate (e.g. on the rear ends of the after-market side luggage support). This is, by far, the position that gives the better reflectivity.
top

17. Not all of the disk locks are compatible with the double rotor disk brake models (1997-1999, 2000+), because of the smaller holes where a lock could be attached. Check it before purchasing. Generally speaking, I would not recommend disk locks because of the (usually irreversible) damage they make to the disk (if  left on it while moving the bike). Particularly on the double disk brake models, I do not know any third party (much cheaper than the OEM) disk, so the above damage would be very costly.
top

18. I included the question about stereo loudspeaker system just to give you an unusual idea. It's not a "must" but it's worth of a look, anyway. Thanks to Tolis Maltoudis of the Hellas Transalp Club for sending me the pictures.
top

19. The part of the rear mudguard that needs extension is the front (supposed to protect the shock absorber). You have to make it by yourself using, par example, a piece of a thick tire inner tube. If you live in a rainy country, you may need it. Deti's site has some related photos.
top

20. Because of the country where I live, I am not the most suitable person to ask this question!. Anyway, apart from heated grips, there are also heated gloves, vests, inner jackets, trousers and socks (!!). The usual precautions for the motorcycle electrical installation (see heated grip question) also apply here.
From reports sent by northern Europe drivers, it seems that heated gloves are more effective against excessive cold, compared to the heated grips. Hands and feet are the most sensitive part of the body, be sure to protect them the better you can!
Talking about non-heated accessories, there are also handlebar muffs (effective but ugly a bit), face masks and balaclavas (highly recommended because helmets can't be completely wind-proof).
top

21. The principle of operation of the anti-vibration weights is simple: they change the self resonation frequency and damping of the handlebar. IMHO, TA doesn't need them because it has rubber dampers in the handlebar support. Another disadvantage is that they extend the handlebar length, making the maneuvering more tough under heavy traffic. If the rubber dampers aren't worn, try a good pair of gloves.

22. I think the limit of 9 Kg maximum weight on the top luggage rack is a bit "pessimistic". It seems that HONDA posed it because they want to warn us about the resulting decreased handling. Surely you can't push the bike to the limits under that condition (center of gravity is moved away from the ideal point). However, keep in mind that the TA is not a sport bike. Everyone could  safely drive a fully loaded TA (e.g. a pillion and over 20Kg on the top rack).
This bike is a medium distance tourer. It's sub-frame is really made with provision for heavy luggage load. Of course, then you must avoid a) very high speeds, b) leaning too much when cornering (especially on sloping roads), c) off-roading. It's also obvious that it is more difficult to handle the bike under strong side winds.
top

TA Accessories FAQ

Last update:

1. Is there any tank cover - tank bag combination specifically made for my TA?
2. Is there an easy way to increase the headlight beam intensity?
3. Do I need crash bars? What about compatibility with older TAs? Any danger from them?
4. How to fix the sensor of a bicycle computer (trip meter) in the front wheel of my TA?
5. A better solution than the cheap bicycle trip meter? What about the wireless trip meters?
6. Does the original plastic engine guard really protect the motor during serious off-roading? Is there any after-market metallic engine guard?
7. What are my options for an intercommunication device?
8. Do I need a centrestand and from where could I obtain one? Any incompatibilities?
9. Is there any good after-market seat?
10. Does a higher windshield really improve rider comfort at high speeds?
11. Which heated grips are suitable for the TA? Any recommendation on the installation?
12. Are these hard top cases a good choice? Which brands are the best?
13. Is there any modification needed before installing a hard side case support system?
14. A small "survival kit" for long distance travels in abroad?
15. Do I need to replace the OEM grips?
16. What else I could do to be more visible by other drivers at night?
17. Are all disc brake locks compatible with the TA? Are they safe?
18. Is it possible to install a stereo loudspeaker system? (on a TA, of course...)
19. Do I need a longer rear mudguard and where I could find one?
20. Under a very cold climate, what types of heated apparatus or other protection are recommended?
21. I feel a hand numb during long trips. I see many bikes fitted with anti-vibration weights on both ends of the handlebar. Are they useful?
22. What is the deal with the 9 Kg (20 pound) rating on the standard top luggage rack?

Note 1: for automatic lubrication devices, see Transmission FAQ
Note 2: = it also refers to XL650V

ACCESSORIES FAQ ANSWERS
1. Yes, there are tank covers made by BAGSTER (France). They are offered in various colors while the material is fake leather, which is durable and moderately water-resistant. On the top of the tank cover, there is a big hole for the gas tank cap. Despite that, tank cap sometimes conflicts slightly with the cover.
There are two BAGSTER tank bags models that fasten on the above tank cover using buttons:  one of them is better fitted to the TA because the handles doesn't interfere to the bag while maneuvering. Check before buying it! The bag has a special compartment that contains the water proof cover. Unfortunately, that cover consumes some room. As for the price, all of them are a bit expensive.
top

2. Despite the "tons of ink" spent to prove that there a few miraculous after market bulbs giving exceptionally high beam intensity without increasing power consumption (and  heat), the answer is roughly "no". All you got with those bulbs is a higher medium scale intensity (if you need it) and a yellowish high beam with mediocre intensity. The only effective solution consists of putting a higher power drain lamp that, of course, needs new wiring and a separate relay to control it. Do not install it without the upgraded wiring and the extra relay because you will get insufficient light due to high voltage drop. See this page for a practical example.
top

3. Most TA (or BMW F650, or Africa Twin, or ...) owners, including me, urge for the necessity of crash bars. The most easy thing in the world is to leave the bike to fall on mother earth while maneuvering. And I don't need to remind you of the crashes.
However, some people are afraid of the injury crash bars could make to the driver (on the contrary, cover plastics are softer and they bend instead of hitting the body). Although the later seems to make sense, I think it doesn't because the usual case of a serious motorcycle accident (and the most dangerous one) includes the ejection of the driver away of the bike.
Compatibility with older (before 1994) is an issue. Some times a lot of effort is needed while in other cases you only need a longer bolt. Look here for details.
top

4. The perfect location for a trip meter on a TA is a matter of inspiration, of course, but you may see my suggestion for the 1997+ models here.
top

5. There is a solution which approaches the perfect "trip computer" better than the usual cheap bicycle speedo. I found one at Tourratech's site.
Wireless trip meters are completely useless, because of the interference that comes from the motorcycle's ignition circuitry. This has been proved by quite a few members of the Transalp mailing list.
top

6. IMHO, the plastic OEM engine guard is quite adequate for the off-road capabilities of any TA (except doing Paris/Dakar-like trips) . You may see it seriously scratched but it won't break.
A few small manufacturers offer aluminum or stainless steel engine guards from time to time (for 600cc models, at the moment). Some of them fit to the TA, other don't. Some of them are really ugly (although I do admit that the OEM guard is not very nice, because of its plastic appearance).
top

7. There are three intercom device categories:
a. Electrical wired. This is the most common type. Their usual drawback comes from the saturation of the microphone itself and also of the preamplifier circuit, at relatively high speeds (above 80-120Km/h, depending of the quality of the microphone and the complexity of the filters). This phenomenon causes a very distorted sound that you can't improve by shouting loudly or by increasing volume. Unfortunately, that saturation is very easy to happen, since the air flow through the bottom of the helmet is very turbulent. The ultimate synonym of turbulence is the space behind the TA windshield, particularly the after market ones (because they are higher than the OEM).
b. Electrical wireless. They are the most expensive amongst all. So you MUST do a test ride before purchasing them (checking sound quality, interference from motorcycle's ignition). This type of intercom also suffers from microphone saturation.
c. Non electrical. I ordered one from M&P Accessories for 70 pounds (the "stereo" version). It works nice at speeds over 140Km/h on the TA! But it is much more awkward in use. It uses pipes to directly transmit sound and the "earphone" are like  earplugs. But I think you hardly could find any electronic intercom working fine at so high speeds. Alas, it's not suitable for daily use. BMW also produced (I don't know if they continue to make it) such a kind of intercom.
top

8. Hmmm... I am not exactly sure. Check out this page for details and possible problems. And keep in mind that the "US" models (1989) are NOT fitted with a centrestand socket (although some owners managed to modify them for accepting one). As for the new XL650V model, I am sure it DOES need a centrestand in order to protect the lower part of the exhaust, during real off-road driving. Any comments on that?
top

9.  Perhaps the (pricey outside U.S.) Corbin after-market seat is a good alternative since it seems to lower the seat height a bit, while the driver sits more comfortably (driver's seat in the original seat is too narrow for really long trips). However, many drivers complained that the Corbin seat needs re-working in order to become a real improvement. This is also my impression, from a few minutes sitting on such a seat purchased here in Greece. Here's a note from Robert Pinder:
"BTW just put a new Corbin on one of my Alps before leaving. It's easily worth twice the selling price. I feel the bike may even handle better because of it - it's definitely lower and with the rump bump you really sit "in" the saddle rather than on "top" as one does on the stock square foam log. Constantly being jammed into the tank, particularly with a passenger, is now a thing of the past!!
I must add that I was disappointed with one aspect of the workmanship on the Corbin however. The cover material was not laminated to the foam at the sharply radiused curve at the rump bump and is therefore pulling away and of course, has not improved with riding. I have yet to contact them. Has anyone had dealings with them with regards to problems? The saddle was delivered in considerably less time than I was told when I ordered it - for which I was extremely thankful!"
My second thought about Corbin seats is related to the pillion's part. I don't see any improvement here (original seat is already very nice, regarding to this point), not to say it may be worse because of the smaller length. Here's a similar comment from Jadam (?):
"I had a Corbin seat on my TA. It's a little lower, but wider than the stock seat so it splays your legs out a bit. In other words, if you're below 170 cm, you may find that the seat makes it hard for you to get both feet down on the ground. It's firmer than the stock seat and seems to provide more support. Corbin seats are not waterproof, so you have to get a rain cover for the seat. Because the Corbin seat is stepped (king/queen style) it reduces the pillion space, so if you ride two-up, your partner might complain. Whether you like the seat or not is very subjective. Thousands of people swear by Corbin seats, but being shorter, and often riding two-up, I found I preferred the stock seat. The guy I sold the Corbin to really liked it.
top

10. In short: yes any after-market windshield (taller than the OEM one) reduces the wind pressure on the chest and neck, however it may increase air turbulence and noise around the helmet, particularly at higher speeds. The problem is too complicated (e.g. you must take into account the driver's height), that is why one may get so different opinions on that subject. My opinion and recommendations are here.
top

11. You have three choices for heated grips:
a. The cheapest are offered by KIMPEX and their biggest advantage is that you keep using your preferred brand of rubber grips. Here is a description by Vik Banerjee:
"I use KIMPEX snowmobile grip heaters on my bike. They are just thin metal heating elements which stick to your bars and are then covered by your standard rubber grips. They work well and are very robust - also easy to install. The price is like $20 CDN dollars - so really cheap. I have them on all my bikes - road and dual purpose."
However I warn you that it might not be a durable solution since I have recorder some complaints about their fragility.
b. Many brands including HOTGRIPS, NEWTRONICS, OXFORD, HEIN GERICKE offer motorcycle specific heated grips. Most of them (NEWTRONICS and OXFORD par example) are too long to fit on the TA handlebar. Anyway, before purchasing, measure their inner diameter (right is slightly larger) and length. Personally, I use a HEIN GERICKE model which is an almost perfect fit for the stock handlebar (only 0.5cm longer than needed, for the right grip)
c. HONDA offers a heated grip system for the new 650 cc Transalp. I suppose it also suits to the older models. It is fitted with a variable heat controller (I am not sure if it is an adjustable thermostat, that would be the perfect solution) and it looks promising.
After buying heated grips, you must connect them to a switched part of the 12V system, not directly to the battery (for obvious reasons). Always use a fuse and a control relay if you are not sure about the current draw permitted by that part of motorcycle's electrical system. You must also use a fuse in series (its current rating depends on grip's maximum wattage, usually a 3-5A fuse is OK). When calculating the maximum current, take into account the "start-up" warming - up mode (if there is one). Generally, as in the case of increasing headlight intensity, all the job must be done by a person with skills in vehicle electrical installation.
top

12. Yes, top cases are rigid, durable and very useful, although they aren't so safe (immune to theft) as they look. There are many choices, you may get some ideas here.
top

13. To install any hard side case support system (e.g. GIVI WingRack, NONFANGO), you must remove the replace the original rear turning lights with the ones supplied by the case manufacturer. In the case of the GIVI top case, you must also remove the shackle (D-lock) socket that is fitted on 1996-1999 models (for the WingRack model only). And, of course, the standard toolbox will be useless from now on.
There is a cheaper GIVI model that does not need any turning light modification
top

14. A survival kit suitable for long trips must contain at least the following:
- medicine box (absolutely indispensable). It's content depends on the countries you visit. Sunglasses, sunburn protection lotion, mosquitoes repellent, if needed. Toilet paper (you never know when it will come handy, water bottle.
- anti-theft equipment (e.g. a good long chain but it is inconvenient to carry with)
- spare clutch cable (breaking is very rare but when it happens...)
- Spokes for rear and front wheel (be sure to buy the correct pairs), particularly if there aren't officially imported TAs in the destination country.
- spare headlight, rear and turn light lamps packed in cotton (to prevent crashing them)
- tools for repairing tire (but practice with them before you go)
- tools for changing engine oil and filter, adjusting chain slack etc. Also a pliers/cutter, some pieces of cables, insulating tape and a towel
- A portable air pressure gauge
- A torch (useful if you are unlucky enough to need making a repair during the night)
- For medium distance trips (say, up to 8.000Km), 1 Lt of engine oil for adding every time you see the level is near the lower limit. You must choose (or find an empty one) that with the "telescopic" hose (e.g. MOTUL 3100) to avoid carrying a funnel, especially when there are crash bars on the bike. The later tend to make hard any attempt to approach the oil tank cap.
- chain lubricant (e.g. a good sticky spray) or an automatic oiling system like SCOTTOILER, particularly if driving in rainy areas.
- A set of foamy ear plugs. They make long rides (on safe, boring highways) a bit more relaxing.
- Always carry some cash with you. You may need it under odd circumstances.
- Don't forget to take spare passport photos and photocopies of your license papers etc (in case you loose the originals, they are useful for your country's embassy).
Additional tools, recommended by Detlev Mueller:
"Don't forget an air-pump ... What will the best tools help, if tire is flat anyway ...
- spare clutch lever and front brake lever
- spare sparkplugs (two should be enough)
- spare fuses
- tools: screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 24 mm wrenches, and at least a 10mm socket wrench."
top

15. The original grips are of low quality and they tend to leave black dirt on hands and gloves. There are numerous brands offering good replacements. I used a brand called SUPERSOOTER (!!) because I found it durable and elegant. Now I use the HEIN GERICKE heated grips and they are also better than the OEM.
top

16. To be clearly visible at night, you must wear reflective clothes (or those equipped with highly reflective zones) and a bright colored helmet. But if you want to be even better spotted by the drivers coming from the rear side, you may install special reflective red components (I don't know the correct term) on the lower rear, to the left and right of the number plate (e.g. on the rear ends of the after-market side luggage support). This is, by far, the position that gives the better reflectivity.
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17. Not all of the disk locks are compatible with the double rotor disk brake models (1997-1999, 2000+), because of the smaller holes where a lock could be attached. Check it before purchasing. Generally speaking, I would not recommend disk locks because of the (usually irreversible) damage they make to the disk (if  left on it while moving the bike). Particularly on the double disk brake models, I do not know any third party (much cheaper than the OEM) disk, so the above damage would be very costly.
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18. I included the question about stereo loudspeaker system just to give you an unusual idea. It's not a "must" but it's worth of a look, anyway. Thanks to Tolis Maltoudis of the Hellas Transalp Club for sending me the pictures.
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19. The part of the rear mudguard that needs extension is the front (supposed to protect the shock absorber). You have to make it by yourself using, par example, a piece of a thick tire inner tube. If you live in a rainy country, you may need it. Deti's site has some related photos.
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20. Because of the country where I live, I am not the most suitable person to ask this question!. Anyway, apart from heated grips, there are also heated gloves, vests, inner jackets, trousers and socks (!!). The usual precautions for the motorcycle electrical installation (see heated grip question) also apply here.
From reports sent by northern Europe drivers, it seems that heated gloves are more effective against excessive cold, compared to the heated grips. Hands and feet are the most sensitive part of the body, be sure to protect them the better you can!
Talking about non-heated accessories, there are also handlebar muffs (effective but ugly a bit), face masks and balaclavas (highly recommended because helmets can't be completely wind-proof).
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21. The principle of operation of the anti-vibration weights is simple: they change the self resonation frequency and damping of the handlebar. IMHO, TA doesn't need them because it has rubber dampers in the handlebar support. Another disadvantage is that they extend the handlebar length, making the maneuvering more tough under heavy traffic. If the rubber dampers aren't worn, try a good pair of gloves.

22. I think the limit of 9 Kg maximum weight on the top luggage rack is a bit "pessimistic". It seems that HONDA posed it because they want to warn us about the resulting decreased handling. Surely you can't push the bike to the limits under that condition (center of gravity is moved away from the ideal point). However, keep in mind that the TA is not a sport bike. Everyone could  safely drive a fully loaded TA (e.g. a pillion and over 20Kg on the top rack).
This bike is a medium distance tourer. It's sub-frame is really made with provision for heavy luggage load. Of course, then you must avoid a) very high speeds, b) leaning too much when cornering (especially on sloping roads), c) off-roading. It's also obvious that it is more difficult to handle the bike under strong side winds.
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